All the Steps you Need to Know to Install the Pro Panel

When mounting an Arzel panel, you want to try to get it in the best location. If possible, you want to mount the panel on a masonry wall. If mounting the panel on a studded wall, then you want to think about what’s on the other side of that wall.

The Arzel pump is quiet, but sometimes the vibration can travel. You want to try to mount the panel close to the equipment. We recommend mounting the panel on a 3/4 inch piece of plywood like I have here, making sure that it was tightly secured to the masonry wall. I’m going to install a Pro Panel today.

All of our polycarbonate enclosures have the same screw holes on the back. Two larger ones on the top and then two smaller screw holes on the bottom. I’m going to mount the Pro Panel using 1-in zip screws. First, I’m going to mark the holes holding the Pro Panel up to the plywood and mark where the screw holes are going to go.

Then I’m going to take my 1-in zip screws, partially screw the screws in. You don’t want to screw them in all the way.

Then you just take the panel, hang it on the two top screws. Then I’ll secure the panel by screwing in the bottom zip screws.

Then going back and screwing in the two top screws. Now the panel is mounted in a great location and ready for the next step.

Today I’m going to demonstrate how to connect the tubing to the Arzel panel. One of the most unique parts about Arzel Zoning is that we are pneumatic system. Arzel dampers are air driven. We do not use a 24volt motor to power our dampers. They are powered by the pump you see here. The air tubing I’m going to demonstrate today is comes in eight different colors. Uh in this instance, I use red for zone 1, yellow for zone 2, and green for zone 3.

Now, you’re going to notice that each panel has red caps on the top that you’re going to need to remove before you install the tubing. Now to differentiate each zone, we’ve stamped the zones at the top of the panel with the back left corner being zone 1. Zone 2 is the back right. Zone 3, middle left. Zone 4 is middle right.

Here I’m going to demonstrate connecting the thermostats to our Pro Panel. I’m using a three-zone Pro Panel here. I’ve already pre-ran the wires to each zone. Now, you’ll notice on zone one that it allows for heat pump connections in case your end user would like to use emergency heat. However, it isn’t required. Today, I’m going to demonstrate connecting the wires utilizing a conventional five-wire system. Here, I’m connecting zone one on the left hand side of the board. It’s pushed to connect. You can tell zone one because it’ll be stamped on the board. Zone 1, 2, and 3.

Now, I’m going to demonstrate connecting the equipment wires to the HVAC output. Now, you’ll notice on the HVAC output that you have two sets of Y1, Y2 contacts. The first set is for the blower to control blower speed and the second set is to the condenser to control capacity. Now much like the zones, the HVAC output is push to connect.

Here I’m connecting wires for multi-stage equipment.

Now I’m going to connect the equipment wires to the HVAC output. You’ll notice that there’s two sets of Y1 Y2 contacts. The first set is for blower speed. The second set is for capacity.

Today I’m going to demonstrate hooking up the sensors to the Pro Panel. When you get the Pro Panel, it’s going to come with two identical sensors. One is the SAT or supply air temperature sensor. The other is the OAT or outdoor air temperature sensor. The supply air temperature sensor manages both high and low limit temperatures with inside the duct work. should be installed downstream from the plenum, not be in direct line of sight of the heat exchanger or evaporator coil, but it should be installed before the first supply run or before the first trunk damper.

I am threading the sensor wire through the sensor bushing to allow the sensor bushing to hold the sensor into the air stream. Here I’m drilling the hole for my sensor before the first supply run within 12 – 18 inch of the plenum. Now after the hole is drilled, I’m installing the bushing with the sensor already installed in it in the airflow. The center terminal blocks are going to have a R, W, and B port that corresponds with the color of wire. There’s going to be a red, white, and black wire. Just put the wires in place and screw them in.

The Pro Panel is going to ship with an OAT or outdoor air temperature sensor. This is going to allow the Pro Panel to control the balance point and heat pump applications. The sensor is also going to have a sensor housing that comes with the Pro Panel. Um, this is going to protect the sensor from snow, ice, and thermal influence. Now, you should install the sensor preferably on the north side of the house in the shade and never in direct sunlight. Now, the sensor is going to have about 15 ft of wire with it, but when um needed, you can add up to 50 ft of 18/3 thermostat wire. Now, I’m going to demonstrate how to install the OAT in the housing. Feed the wire through the round hole, through the zip tie, and pull the zip tie tight to hold it in place. Here I’ve mounted the OAT sensor outside in a northerly exposure in the shade. And now I’m connecting the OAT sensor the same way we did the SAT sensor, connecting the red, the white, and the black wire. There you have it.

Each Pro Panel is going to come with a standard 40VA transformer. The panel does not get powered by the equipment. Instead, it gets powered by the transformer itself. If you’re daisy-chaining Pro Panels together, each Pro Panel is going to need its own transformer to power it up.

Now, I’m going to demonstrate how to connect the 18/2 thermostat wire to the transformer. You’re going to strip the wire way back. I prefer to put a little hook to each wire. Connect to each AC terminal. It is not necessary to connect to the ground. And there you have it. Now we’re going to connect the transformer wires to the R and C at the 24 VAC terminal block.

Now the pro panel is ready to connect to the Arzel app.