Arzel Product Overview

We are often referred to as the pneumatic dampers. So a lot of people in their mind, if you’re familiar with any commercial pneumatics, you got a compressor, you got an air dryer, you got pressure regulators, you got pneumatic thermostats. You can’t even use a 24 volt thermostat. And while ours is pneumatic, it obviously does not involve all of this.

So we’ve taken the simplicity, the reliability. But the other thing that we do hear from people that are then exposed to pneumatics: it lasts a long time, typically. Those things just kind of keep ticking along. And, you know, they may be 50 plus years old when you’re working on them.

You need a panel, you need tubing, you need dampers, and you need probably some tees, right?

The pump is pre-installed in every panel. This originally came from medical. I believe it came from a kidney dialysis machine. So you can kind of assume that if they’re putting this in a kidney dialysis machine, it needs to be pretty robust and pretty reliable, right? You don’t want to be hooked up to the machine and them say, “Hey, hang on a little bit. We’ll get a tech out so we can replace the pump in our machine,” right? We adopted this probably close to 30 years ago, and we’ve been using it since. It’s kind of like, if it’s not broke, don’t fix it. You know, this is the workhorse. This is what opens and closes all your dampers. This is the one that can operate 35 of your dampers. Because we’re not running an electromechanical load through a transformer. It’s all through this guy here, right? One part number. One pump for every panel.

Normal position of our pneumatic damper. Typically, after they’ve been in the system for a while, and they’ve been open and closing, the normal resting open position is about there. So if you do have a catastrophic failure, the panel just got completely wiped out by a lightning, you could direct wire a thermostat to the furnace, control it, and these dampers will be in a, you know, mostly failed open position.

You need 40in of water column or greater to close the damper, and then you need at least 35in of vacuum to pull this down and pull it into a full open position.

Plug in 24 volt transformer. Sealed so well, you guys can’t let the smoke out of it. This has overcurrent protection built in, so if there is a short, it will protect itself. And when the short is gone, it will reset itself and come back on it. Because that’s not powering all of your dampers. but the pump is, that is again one of the reasons why you can have, you know, up to 35 dampers on one panel without the need for any special, you know, accommodations, power wise.

Thermostat options. We try to make our panels work with pretty much anything that’s out there. We can’t work with the communicating stat, right, because that’s a specific protocol for specific manufacturer, but we could be wired or wireless. We could be Wi-Fi, we could be power stealing. We could be battery powered. It really doesn’t matter. Could be Nest, could be Honeywell, could be Pro One, could be Ecobee. So we’ve gone through extensive measures to make sure all the panels work with those. On the outside, it doesn’t seem like that’s a big deal, but they all work a little bit different. And some will put phantom calls on the panel or do weird things. So there’s been a lot of work behind the scenes just to make sure that the panel lineup works with pretty much any thermostat that you want to put on it.

Color coded tubing. Instead of having miles and miles of brown thermostat wire and not knowing what goes to what zone. Simply color coded. Got a red zone a white zone and a blue zone. You come back later on, it’s very simple to tell what dampers are connected to what zone.

Couplings, plugs, tees elbows. No special tools needed.

We do offer an installation toolkit. So if you guys are doing a fair amount of it, it’s kind of nice to have the kit there. The stapler is probably one of the things we sell the most out of there. Has the manifold EzyHub in there. Diagnostic tool for checking for leagues.

Dampers. 4 through 16 inch round. We have everything. All the standard sizes, eight-bys, ten-bys, and 12by in trunk dampers, for your disposal. We can do custom sizes within 24 hours.

Trunk tampering is one option. New construction. Or you just have dedicated trunks to each zone. You know, really makes no difference to us. If you’re in a, or if the home is going to be a finished mechanical room and the rest of the basement is going to be all finished, I might recommend you bring all 2, 3 or 4 of your trunks into that mechanical room and have a accessible exposed trunk damper for each one of the zones you created. I don’t want them buried behind drywall for a mess later on. Make sure that those dampers are accessible.

We do branch dampering. That could be new construction as well. Maybe they’re not finishing the basement. I would rather, on new construction, I would rather put in one trunk line than a whole bunch of branch runs, and do a heck of a lot less sheet metal and put in branch dampers in all of them, than trying to figure out, “Where am I going to put my furnace, get 4 trunks here, 2 returns, all my bending, everything else.” Becomes a real nightmare and very expensive and time consuming.

And this is also probably what you’re going to run into when you get into a retrofit scenario. You’re going to be in a customer’s home. No one laid out the ductwork so that in 2026 or 27 they can get dampers installed and have dedicated trunks. Nobody’s doing that. They’re probably just a trunk system with a bunch of branch dampers. And through the crack and peel template and that EzySlide damper, you can go in there and install dampers on all those branch runs and zone it all. So it works very well for the retrofit side of things.

And what that might look like is, you know, the different runs go to various different points of the house. The red tubing we connected on all the dampers that are appropriate for zone one. For zone two, we just tie in whatever supplies go to our zone two. And then finally the green for our zone three. And then these all make a home run and go back to the panel.

The 24 volt, DC solenoids, those are the guys that are installed in the top corners of the panel. They’re all pre-installed. You typically don’t have any interaction with those. That’s what switches these lines to either pressure or vacuum to open and close them. The solenoid’s pre-installed. Each solenoid has two connections on it, one to vacuum and one to pressure. And then we just switch that solenoid between energized and de-energized so that you can open and close dampers.

So if we go across the control panels. You probably have seen the new enclosure, I’m guessing at this point. Right? New polycarbonate. Has it been better for you guys?

Much better.

What do you like about it?

More room.

The room. You got more room. What else? Has it been quieter for you?

Yeah.

Okay. So behind here, behind the circuit board, tucked behind there is a little muffler system for the pump. Now the pump has four tubing connections on it. That is, between the polycarbonate itself, the extra room and the space, and that muffler, it’s been just much quieter, less vibration. You know, this little ten by ten panel is ten and a half by ten and a half. When you put the HeatPumPro circuit board in there, you got all these thermostat wires, equipment, wires, sensor wires. It was tough. So we wanted, you know, after years of taking phone calls from you guys, “Hey, I ain’t got enough room for my gorilla paws in there, and all the wires you want me to connect.” So we made the enclosure bigger.

Our 200 MPS series is our basic, entry level, maybe new construction. It’s single stage, 2 or 3 zones. No bells, whistles or frills. It is heat pump compatible, but not great.

AirBoss. This is more traditional, what comes in is what goes out. So the staging and the functionality, most of this is driven by the thermostats that are connected to it. This is more just your conventional two stage zone panel. Put multi-stage thermostats on it, it’s 4H/2C heat pump or 2H/2C conventional. Comes into 2, 3, 4, 6 or 8 zone option, depending on how many zones you need. A lot of people use this commercially because it does go up to eight zones. But our new Pro Panel, with the daisy chain capability, a lot of people are actually going to that over over the AirBoss platform.

Our HeatPumPro, this is nearing end of life. This was our flagship model despite its name.

So our Pro Panel, it is our latest universal panel. You can control any equipment you want with a single-stage heat/cool thermostat. It pairs with that mobile app. When you download the app, it just opens and connects. You don’t need to give me your information, create an account, create a password. You just literally download it on your phone. If you have it on your phone, you can go into zero cell service and still connect to the panel and do everything you got to do. So we really try to make it super easy.

Still works with the same dampers. It’s going to be the replacement for the HeatPumPro, obviously, but it is so nice. It is so much better than almost anything we’ve released to date.

It does do daisy chaining. App-guided. That one tap, or that one touch, equipment settings is kind of that easy button. So there’s a list and it just says, “What kind of equipment do you have?” Well, I have a two-stage furnace, two-stage AC. You hit that, and you’re basically programmed. You don’t have to do anything beyond that. The HeatPumPro, if you’re familiar with that, you had to go through the 21 questions. This negates all of that.

It also uses the zone weights for staging two-stage equipment, so it can lock small zones in the first stage if the equipment is two-stage compatible. Or tell it when to stage up if a bigger zone or multiple zones is calling.

Our CoolMizer. This doesn’t do everything your economizer on a rooftop can do, but it can do basic economizer function on a split system. If you have a rooftop, do not put this on your rooftop. Get the economizer that was made for your rooftop. Plug it in, connect your harness and be done with it. This is made for a split system.

So you may have a beauty salon. You may have a tax office, I don’t know. If you have some space with a high load, you know, winter months or at least heavy into the shoulder months, this could introduce some free cooling for you.

The AloneZone board. This is our smart slave. So we refer to this really as kind of like the smart slave. If it goes into a zoning panel to give you an extra zone, or to give you a zone that can’t turn on the equipment because it’s too small.

But this can also be installed in this panel. This is called the AloneZone panel. Obviously just this board. Has a pump, solenoid, transformer. You have a space or a building and you have one area that is constantly over conditioning. They don’t want to zone the whole house. They don’t want to zone the whole building. But they sure wish they could stop one area from over conditioning.

If it’s under conditioning, this cannot help you. You need to turn on the equipment.

So it’s ideal and best set for over conditioning. This would allow you to go into that business and say, listen, I’m not trying to sell you zoning for your entire four-story building and all of the offices and things that are in here. But how would you like to control the temperature in that dentist office, so that guy is not calling you daily saying it’s freezing in here in the summer, and it’s way too hot in the winter. And all I got to do is put this in a closet and I need 3 or 4 dampers, a thermostat, and we’re done. That’s where the AloneZone comes in. That’s why the board technically says AloneZone and not smart slave.

And the reason why it gets the term smart in there is because this board has a temperature sensor on it. And this goes into the supply duct. Because what you want this board to know is if they put it into cooling, but the building or the supply is heating at the moment, you don’t want it to just falsely open the damper and start dumping more heat into the area that’s already too hot.

You want this board to know that there’s cold air available in the ductwork if it’s going to open the damper. But it doesn’t need to get back to the equipment, it just needs that sensor in the duct to tell it whether it’s it’s hot or cold.

Our interface panel. Most commonly used on Lennox equipment, but can be used on others. If they have standard 24 volt AC power-open style dampers, then our panel can set between their zone panel and our dampers, and you can use Arzel dampers on a Lennox Harmony or an Intellizone, or maybe even just a standard Honeywell panel if you wanted to.

So the output, the 24 volt outputs that would go to motorized dampers, would go to this interface panel. And now you can control Arzel lifetime warranty dampers.

EzySlide damper installation. You just simply apply the sticker to the side of the pipe, cut out the appropriate triangle size. Now, I usually like to drill maybe 2 or 3 holes with a step bit, so I don’t have that big fish hook there. But if you’re happy with bleeding on the job or whatever, you can do it however this guy did.

Put the damper in sideways, give it a quarter turn and put in your screws. Connect your color coded tubing. Simple. Easy.

Inserta. Originally designed for counter flow in slab, but it was soon discovered that if you cut an access in the bottom of your trunk, this will go into just a standard start collar elbow and into the pipe. So, you know, not every run is accessible, right? So you may have one that’s buried above your supply and return, and there’s no way to cut in a standard EzySlide damper into the side of that. So those are six, seven and eight stock sizes. We do five, nine and ten as customs.

The RegiDamper, not gonna lie, this is my least favorite product in our lineup. Reason being is blades are not gasketed, so you can get a little whistle or air noise between them. You can hear that rattle a little bit. When this has full pressure on it, it becomes very quiet. When it has full vacuum on it and it’s open, it becomes very quiet. In that transition phase where it’s opening or closing, depending on how the air hits it, it can make some noise.

If you tell me, I want to put this in my customers, you know, bedroom. Yeah, I don’t know if I would do that. If you’re gonna put it in the mudroom, registers in the basement, things of that nature, it’s probably just fine. It can be a great solution. And it’s not that it’s a terrible damper. It’s just, to me, it’s just really not quite to the level of all of our other dampers.

EzyFit. The blade folds in half, and looks like a taco shell. This one, as long as that supply boot goes into a round pipe, I can fold this up that that thin. If you have somebody with really small hands and a really skinny arm, this will go through a two and a quarter boot. Any three-by four-by six-by, right into the round pipe, you release it. The mat is magnetic, holds it into place, and then the blade springs back to its normal round shape. And because of this soft gasket material, when air passes it, when it’s opening and closing, there’s no whistling, there’s no air noise. The customer probably won’t even know that it’s simply just inches from their supply boot.

This is the improved version of the Regi, as long as it goes into a round pipe.

BalancePros. Not a huge thing, but actually the sales of this has really been going through the roof. You ever needed to put in a balance damper after the fact? Like, “Boy, if I could just turn a lever on that pipe, it’d sure be nice to throttle down the amount of air that it’s getting.”

But you have to, typically on most balance dampers, you have to get a section of the pipe apart, get the blade in there with one hand, and then connect your nut. This just goes through the same triangular pattern where one of the EzySlide dampers would go. You would affix this onto the pipe, cut out the triangle, and then all you got to do is take four zip screws, put it on there, and now you have a balancing damper.

So, the extra that these cost, you’re going to save double in labor trying to get the pipe apart and get your hand in there and put in a typical blade. Those come in round and rectangular, same blade that our standard EzySlide dampers use.